“As the days in California get shorter and the temperatures begin to drop, our minds wander elsewhere. We dreamed of long days, hot sun, and bigger waves to help us get our fill after a slow summer - we knew we had to get closer to the equator. Texts were sent, calls were made, buoys were studied, and last minute flights we purchased - we were headed to Southern Mexico. We had heard rumors of a fabled beach break with huge, empty barrels far down South and a couple weeks later when the charts lined up it was time to check it out for ourselves.

We got off the plane and filed through a single room airport, where we then strapped board bags onto a truck and drove seemingly further and further away from civilization until we could hear the thunder of waves hitting sand. As soon as we got our first sight of the water we knew the legends were right; we had found a heaving, hollow wave that was big enough to fit inside of standing up. We surfed everyday until our arms gave out, trading barrels and smiles amongst ourselves and the locals. When the sun went down we'd pass around some cold beers, go to bed, and do it all over again - a great reminder of how simple life really can be. Until next time, Mexico.”